🔗 Share this article

When compiling a list of London’s best restaurants, one might expect familiar Michelin-starred names. Yet, nestled prominently among these gastronomic heavyweights is a simple salonu located in a distant part of northern London.

An Surprise Accolade

The compact Turkish spot, focusing in the culinary delights of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been crowned the fourth top restaurant in the city by a respected gastronomic guide. This accolade has made the proprietors totally shocked.

“I’m utterly astonished,” says a family member, pointing to his parents’ relentless work that led to their small shop earning such a lofty position on a prestigious 99-strong list.

A Character of Simplicity

This little venue, which was a basic cafe before its conversion into a popular spot, has maintained much of its earlier feel. It fits just over 20 people and, aside from the vibrant live cooking show, the setup remains mostly unchanged. “It’s a small and stocky spot,” says the owner.

A Signature Dish: Tantuni

However, it is focused on the fare, and this eatery certainly delivers. The restaurant’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a straightforward delight. Choice of meat—either lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to preserve a moist, juicy quality.

The meat is then added into a massive pan with spices and oil, which are added in gradually. As the savoury mixture bubbles up, homemade lavaş—a soft bread—is slapped on top to absorb all the juices. Finely sliced onions and a dash of parsley are placed before the savoury meat is rolled securely inside.

The wrap is often consumed with a drop of lemon or some pickles. The final product is a powerful punch of flavour, with subtle hints of sumac, bold onions and red, paprika-infused oil bringing it all in harmony.

Other Than the Classic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is chopped and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. The respected food critic called this dish “among London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

When it comes to a sweet finish, the eatery’s künefe proves a treat. It is coated in a more modest amount of syrup than usual, giving it a more intense, more aromatic and less sickly profile.

Rising Above the Giants

Notably, this modest restaurant has been placed higher than several illustrious three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself just behind the peak of the list, following other esteemed dining destinations.

Whereas two people could readily leave this place stuffed for below £25, comparable meals at luxury establishments can start at significantly more than that figure.

A Philosophy of Heart

The restaurant is also among several Turkish restaurants included and is found well beyond the city’s prime zones. “It’s not concerning luxury. London is an costly city. There is an expectation that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the best service and best food but I don’t agree with that,” states the owner.

“I feel what is most important is hospitality, a welcoming atmosphere and somewhere you can be yourself and feel calm.”

This philosophy is shared by the list’s compiler, who remarked that if he was in a position of authority, he would “insist to have every chef in London train at this restaurant as a final lesson, to teach them the dangers of overcomplication, and to show what is achievable if you do just one – or three – things to their absolute best”.

The Story of Hard Work

Unlike most chefs running kitchens in the list’s top ten, the head chef behind the food did not apprentice at fancy establishments. “I am truly proud of our restaurant and our mum,” adds her son.

Numerous restaurants need years to find their footing, but this one first launched seven years ago. Its acclaim is thanks to relentless, seven-day weeks of effort.

“Our mum would be really tired. She would source produce in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. All of it is made by hand; she would do all of this. She is a single mother and she managed a personal life but her friends would come here to encourage her. She was raising children and a house to manage as well. Each of these duties shaped her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he says.

A Recognition for the People

This restaurant’s accolade is set to resonate beyond its own walls. “I think numerous people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” concludes the owner, pointing out the greater significance of this gastronomic triumph.